How to Care for Spring Annuals in Summer

It's hot, and there was 81% humidity this morning.  Plants that usually do well in Oklahoma's Springs and Summers might not be looking too hot right now.  It's hard enough to keep them watered, much less feed with out burning, or pruned with out ruining them.  But fear not!  It is not as difficult as it may seem!  Here's a little primer on how to keep the annuals you worked so hard for in Spring looking good until October/November when you're ready to start planting Pansies and Cabbages.

As plants grow, so do their roots.  All the fertilizer, compost, and water that have been applied to make the plants full and pretty, have encouraged enough root growth to displace most of the soil in the pot.  Eventually, the roots can't grow anymore, but the plant continues. Soon, there is more plant than the root system can support, and the plant starts looking like the one on the left: yellow, thin, and sick.  Not to mention, it is easy to forget a watering or two.

There are two things that need to be done: remove some of the plant and feed.  Removing biomass does two things:  1. eliminates much of the sickly/dead growth and 2.lessens the load of water and nutrients that the roots need to deliver.  Feeding also does two things: 1. replaces nutrients the plant has used or lost due to leaching and 2. supplies nutrients for the plant to use in replacing bio mass that has been removed.

Let's start with the pruning.  With trees and shrubs that last for many years, pruning is a careful, deliberate, and time consuming task. It should really only be done by someone trained in plant anatomy. 
Annuals, however, last one year, so shaping is less of a concern.   Trailing annuals are the easiest and, usually, the most in need of pruning.  A few examples: Trailing Petunias, Sweet Potato Vine, Million Bells, and Blue Daze....

Just grab a handful of stems, like you are making a pony tail of plants.  Then, take some pruners or scissors, place at a 45 degree angle to the plant pony tail, and start chopping.  Edward Scissor Hand Style.  No need to be careful (EXCEPT FOR YOUR FINGERS), the point is to remove stem not shape.  If you cut at different levels, you will have a natural shape.  Go for a shag, not a bowl cut.

This is most necessary in mixed or combo pots where there are many plants competing for resources.  But it also becomes necessary in baskets or pots with one plant and with upright or bushy annuals because they can get leggy too.  They are a little more work because trimming them willy nilly can make them look hacked to pieces.  All it takes is to look for a joint (or node) on a stem where there are leaves emerging. 

Trim every stem that looks leggy, or that has a long section with out leaves.  It won't take too long. Even on a large plant, it should take five minutes or so.  Do all that, and you will go from the plant on the left to the plant on the right.

So, the trimmed plants should look better after trimming, but it will won't look great.  At this point, they will need food.  So, throw on a handful of compost and a small dose of slow release fertilizer like Colorstar, or organic, like Flower-tone.  Then, set a timer on a soaker hose, go on vacation, and when you get back you will have the gorgeous planters you remember from May!