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How to Care for Spring Annuals in Summer

30/7/2016

3 Comments

 
It's hot, and there was 81% humidity this morning.  Plants that usually do well in Oklahoma's Springs and Summers might not be looking too hot right now.  It's hard enough to keep them watered, much less feed with out burning, or pruned with out ruining them.  But fear not!  It is not as difficult as it may seem!  Here's a little primer on how to keep the annuals you worked so hard for in Spring looking good until October/November when you're ready to start planting Pansies and Cabbages.
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As plants grow, so do their roots.  All the fertilizer, compost, and water that have been applied to make the plants full and pretty, have encouraged enough root growth to displace most of the soil in the pot.  Eventually, the roots can't grow anymore, but the plant continues. Soon, there is more plant than the root system can support, and the plant starts looking like the one on the left: yellow, thin, and sick.  Not to mention, it is easy to forget a watering or two.
There are two things that need to be done: remove some of the plant and feed.  Removing biomass does two things:  1. eliminates much of the sickly/dead growth and 2.lessens the load of water and nutrients that the roots need to deliver.  Feeding also does two things: 1. replaces nutrients the plant has used or lost due to leaching and 2. supplies nutrients for the plant to use in replacing bio mass that has been removed.
Let's start with the pruning.  With trees and shrubs that last for many years, pruning is a careful, deliberate, and time consuming task. It should really only be done by someone trained in plant anatomy. 
Annuals, however, last one year, so shaping is less of a concern.   Trailing annuals are the easiest and, usually, the most in need of pruning.  A few examples: Trailing Petunias, Sweet Potato Vine, Million Bells, and Blue Daze....
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Just grab a handful of stems, like you are making a pony tail of plants.  Then, take some pruners or scissors, place at a 45 degree angle to the plant pony tail, and start chopping.  Edward Scissor Hand Style.  No need to be careful (EXCEPT FOR YOUR FINGERS), the point is to remove stem not shape.  If you cut at different levels, you will have a natural shape.  Go for a shag, not a bowl cut.
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This is most necessary in mixed or combo pots where there are many plants competing for resources.  But it also becomes necessary in baskets or pots with one plant and with upright or bushy annuals because they can get leggy too.  They are a little more work because trimming them willy nilly can make them look hacked to pieces.  All it takes is to look for a joint (or node) on a stem where there are leaves emerging. 
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Trim every stem that looks leggy, or that has a long section with out leaves.  It won't take too long. Even on a large plant, it should take five minutes or so.  Do all that, and you will go from the plant on the left to the plant on the right.
So, the trimmed plants should look better after trimming, but it will won't look great.  At this point, they will need food.  So, throw on a handful of compost and a small dose of slow release fertilizer like Colorstar, or organic, like Flower-tone.  Then, set a timer on a soaker hose, go on vacation, and when you get back you will have the gorgeous planters you remember from May!
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Summer is the Time of the Natives

14/7/2016

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Pyhlla nodiflora, Frogfruit. A great shade ground cover with verbena like flowers
Ah, Summer.  The heat index was 105 degrees yesterday, today looks like it will rain enough to make tomorrow miserable, and the weekend doesn't look much better.  This means, for those of us that WANT to get out in the gardens, our plants may not be looking all that great.  Geraniums are yellowing, petunias are petunia-ing, and Periwinkles are... well, they are probably fine. 
Veronia lettermannii, Iron Butterfly
Gaillardia pulchella, Sundance Bi Color
Ratibida columnifera, Prairie Cone Flower in front of Blond Ambition Grama Grass
Native Bees enjoying some Route 66 Coreopsis.
But there is a class of plants that is, just now, beginning to look their best!  Of course these are the plants that were here before any of us were; native plants!  Natives will thrive in any condition Oklahoma can throw at us because they have spent countless ages adapting to our, eh hem, interesting weather patterns.  The best part is that most of them start blooming when our spring perennials and annuals are starting to fade. 
Little Henry Rudbeckia setting buds
Conoclinum coelestinum, Blue Mist Flower.
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Joe Pye Weed
Eupatorium fistulosum
Does best in a low lying, damp area but will grow well in almost any condition with at least partial sun.

4-5 feet tall, but we do have a 2 foot tall dwarf variety
2 feet wide
Blooms July to frost.
Pow Wow Wild Berry Cone Flower
Echinacea purpurea

Found variety of  the native Cone Flower that does not need deadheading.  Excellent as a showy specimen or planted in mass.  Does best in poor dry soil and full sun.

2-3 feet tall
1 foot wide
Blooms June to August
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El Reno Sideoats Grama
Bouteloua curtipendula

This is my favorite grass. All grasses bloom, but this grass has one of the most obvious and "traditional" flowers.  It forms a nice clump of minty green leaves and flower stems with reddish blossoms that then form seeds that song birds flock to.  In Fall, the leaves and seed heads turn gold and remain that way through Winter.

2-3 feet tall
2 feet wide
 Prefers dry conditions.
These are just a few of the natives that are available. Slash Pine, Kentucky Coffee Tree, and Catalpas, Blue Grama Grass, Indian Steel Grass, even a Sugar Maple!  So, if your yard or garden usually look a little drab this time of year and you want some color or texture to tide you over until Pansy and Mum time, think about some native plants.  The are easy, sustainable, and better than organic because they rarely need ANYTHING applied to them to grow well.  In fact, fertilizers and compost can harm or disfigure natives like Rudbeckia, grasses and Cone Flower either by encouraging too much growth so that they flop over or just burn the leaves!  They will need regular, deep waterings in their first year, but soon they will need nothing except the occasional pruning or deadheading to keep them looking tidy.
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    Kathy and Alex have combined experience of over 25 years, and offer their expertise here.

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